Day 4 (July 12, 2021): Pinch me so I'll know this is real!

This entire trip was concocted around the idea of going to a small village in a fjord on the South Coast, called Francois.  (Pronounced in the vernacular as Fran-sway.  And you had better get that right, lest you be laughed out of the place upon arrival!)  Honestly?  I had never even heard of Francois until last year, but once I looked it up, I was smitten and decided I just had to see it.  When we woke at 6:45AM, I knew there was just one thing that stood between us and the South Coast:  the formidable and seemingly terrifying Route 480, more familiarly known as the Burgeo Highway.  It is 146km of asphalt through the most unforgiving Newfoundland wilderness, with not so much as a gas station to break the monotony.  And to listen to the stories that have developed around it since it was built in the 70s, there is a moose and a black bear waiting at every turn in the supposedly pothole-filled road to pounce and lead a person to sudden death.

So with fear and trembling, we pulled out of the Days Inn in Stephenville at 8AM and started out.  Unlike yesterday, the morning was chilly after an overnight rain, and fingers of fog gripped every mountain side until the turnoff to the Burgeo Highway.  The good news is that the road wasn't too bad and it is with disappointment that I tell you we didn't see as much as a rabbit, let alone a moose or a bear.  Exactly two hours after leaving the hotel, we were at the "Welcome to Burgeo" sign.

After getting some groceries at Foodland (the one store in Francois closes before the ferry arrives, so we had to buy our grub in Burgeo), we laid claim to one of the few parking spots at the Burgeo Ferry Terminal and set off on foot to explore the town a little.  A visit to a small museum and lattes at A Brewed Awakening were the highlights, before tromping back to the ferry terminal in the rain.  The boat to Grey River and Francois is only taking 20 passengers during the pandemic, so we were worried about not getting seats, and tickets could not be purchased in advance.  But there was no reason to worry.  We easily got tickets and settled in at 1:15PM.  The gangplank was raised and we left the dock at 1:42PM, a couple of minutes early.

The late morning rain stopped just before we boarded, and the fog dissipated as we left port.  In fact, it became so sunny and warm that we went out on the upper deck of the Marine Navigator and stayed there for the entire voyage.  What unfurled before our eyes was the most spectacular coastal scenery we have ever seen.  We had no idea that the South Coast was a contiguous coastal mountain range.  The dramatic cliffs easily explain why most of the coast has never been settled - there is simply no flat land to build a settlement.

Two hours into the voyage, we turned into Grey River, a settlement with about 60 buildings.  The crew allowed us to quickly get off and sprint around a small section of the village.  After a short stop, it was off to Francois.  The wind picked up on this second part of the journey, but it remained warm and pleasant.  At 5:40PM, a small lighthouse signaled the opening of the fjord leading to the village.  The wind whipped down from the steep cliffs and all of us on deck received a few good sprays of salt water!  At 5:50PM, 40 minutes ahead of schedule due to a favourable wind, we pulled into the Government Wharf of Francois.  The stunning walls of the fjord and the quaint nature of the village made for a "pinch me to make sure this is real" moment.

A woman was at the dock to lead us to our AirBnB, down the footpath from the ferry terminal.  We quickly made dinner and then did an evening stroll and enjoyed some wonderful chats with two former residents who left Francois during the Smallwood resettlement years, and a fisherman who has lived here all his life.

This place is magical.  And we cannot wait to drink in its beauty tomorrow and to climb some of the heights that Francois offers up.

The Burgeo Highway:  fear and trembling.  An example of when tales of terror are greatly exaggerated, compared to the reality.

Two-thirds of the way down the Burgeo Highway, this wonderful waterfall appeared.

Burgeo is a windy hodge-podge of quaintness!



It was a sobering moment to learn that Burgeo's seniors' club is for those who are just 50 and over.  


Muddy Hole Road...

...not to be confused with West Muddy Hole Road!

A small museum provided some light moments -- including this sign from the former Cottage Hospital in Burgeo, and its directional sign to the pier.

The Marine Voyager was our ride to Grey River and Francois.  It pulled into the Ferry Terminal at 11:30AM and departed on our voyage at 1:42PM.

This is the route we followed.  We assumed we would be quite far offshore, but in fact, we were quite close to the rugged coastline for the entire trip.

Pam, climbing the gangplank.  

Some photos between Burgeo and Grey River.  We had no idea the entire coastline comprises mountainous terrain.  For anyone who has cruised Norway's fjords, we are certain you would find this ride equally as impresive.

The village of Grey River.  A compact townsite of 60 or so buildings at the base of sheer cliffs.



The Grey River Mail Box being hoisted off the Marine Voyager.


The crew allowed us to leave the ship to take a quick walk around part of the village.  Shop, church and power generating station are three of the most important of the 60 buildings.


Preparing to leave Grey River.

The following coastline shots reflect the two hour trip from Grey River to Francois.

This small lighthouse marked the entry to the piece de resistance - the fjord leading to Francois.

The fjord walls leading to Francois remind one of a fortress.  Note how the village on the left is dwarfed by the fjord walls.




Arriving at Francois' pier.


There is no restaurant in Francois, so you have to bring your own food.  (The store closes before the ferry arrives.)  We whipped up a great pasta dinner with Pillsbury biscuits.

And finally: the view from the front of our AirBnB features The Friar -- the squared prominent rock feature;  the view from the back of our AirBnB shows the walkway system in Francois, as well as a waterfall.