Day 6 (July 14, 2021): Farewell, Francois! Hello, Ramea.

When you wake up in a place that has really tugged on your heart strings, it makes a person sad to know you have to leave. When the alarm went off before sunrise this morning, the sadness of leaving Francois was the first sentiment that came into our consciousness.

With breakfast eaten and our AirBnB left just as we found it (one has to be concerned with how one is rated by the AirBnB host, after all!), we left for the ferry at 7AM. Mind you, it was just a five minute walk down the path. As we were walking, the sun was just high enough in the eastern sky to peek over the top of the fjord walls.

All ten of our fellow passengers were familiar faces by now -- nine tourists who had come in with us on Monday's boat and whom we had gotten to know a little, and a local chap we had chatted up yesterday. It felt comfortable to set sail with them all. Even the Francois-based crew who had taken us from Burgeo to Francois on Monday seemed familiar by now. The Marine Voyager pulled away from the pier right on time, at 7:30AM.

We had a wonderful sail. Although it was a bit cooler than Monday's sail, there was hardly a breath of wind on the open sea and not much of a swell. The dramatic coastline was just as exciting as Monday, when our eyes had feasted on it for the first time. We chatted with all the wonderful folk on the boat and, as always happens when you open your heart and listen, we learned a lot about places, travel, experiences and connections.

After a stop in Grey River, where we stretched our legs on the pier, we set off for Burgeo, arriving on time at 11:45AM. Bidding farewell to our fellow passengers and the crew, and then picking up sandwiches and coffee at A Brewed Awakening, we set off for Sandbanks Provincial Park, based on the multitude of "you just have to go to Sandbanks!" suggestions we had gotten from so many people. The beaches did not disappoint! It was then a quick dash back to the ferry terminal to board the MV Gallipoli for Ramea. We left on time at 2:30 PM, arrived at 3:45 PM, and explored the island and had dinner. The 6:30 PM ferry had us back in Burgeo at 7:45 PM, where we checked into Burgeo Haven Inn for a much needed rest. And it is from the quaint quilt-covered bed that I bid you a good night from the South Coast!

As we walked to the ferry in Francois, the boats of the DFO wharf witnessed the sun's rise above the fjord walls.

The blog's photographer, hard at work, capturing the last glimpses of Francois - a place that stole our hearts.

The light marking the entrance of the Francois fjord, under the light of the early morning sun.

The dramatic coastline just west of Francois in the morning sunlight.

Several large bins marked, "LSD of Grey River" were hoisted onto the ship in Grey River. In case you are tempted to think these are scandalous bins of the drug LSD, I can assure you that the acronym in this case stands for "Local Service District"! The bins contain the village's trash, bound for the waste facility in Burgeo.

A Resettlement Story

Let's pause for a moment to tell you an important story - one of resettlement under the Joey Smallwood Resettlement Program of the 1960s. Meet the Skinner sisters from Burgeo, who are two of eight siblings born in Francois. In 1967, their parents accepted the government offer of $5,000 to leave Francois and resettle in Burgeo. On a summer's morning in '67, when the sea was particularly nasty, the family loaded all their furniture and belongings onto a long-liner bound for Burgeo. The departure was hard on the extended family they left behind, as it was for the Skinners who resettled. With that $5,000, the family purchased a house in Burgeo that needed a lot of work and started a new life with electricity, television and automobiles -- all trappings of 1960s Newfoundland life that Burgeo boasted, but Francois only had in short supply. But those trappings didn't fill the void of leaving a place and people that meant everything to them. The family adapted and thrived in Burgeo to be sure, but their hearts have always been drawn back to Francois. The sisters travelled to Francois with us on Monday and back again today; they are the people who told us about Crust Man, who supposedly lived in the cave overlooking the village. (See yesterday's blog entry.) Two kind, salt-of-the-earth women, who exemplify the warmth and hospitality that outport Newfoundland has always been known for. Thanks to them for allowing us to share their story!

As a kid, David collected Newfoundland Provincial Park experiences like some people collect postage stamps. Sandbanks has always been on the "must see" list, and it did not disappoint. The park boasts 7KM of white sand beaches, part of a larger archipelago of islands and coastline comprising 14KM of beaches.

The boardwalk to Western Beach at Sandbanks.

Western Beach.

Second Beach at Sandbanks.

First Beach at Sandbanks.

Tadi Point at Sandbanks.

"We're Back!" - welcoming figures at the Burgeo Community Garden.

A Mi'kmaq wigwam at the Burgeo Community Garden. Note the Qalipu First Nation flag (left) and the Mi'kmaq flag (right).

Leaving Burgeo on the MV Gallipoli. You have to back onto the ferry, which is a little unnerving!

Pam and the Newfoundland flag on board the MV Gallipoli. It is a 47-metre vessel, owned by the Government of Newfoundland & Labrador and built in 1986.

As we were heading to Ramea, the Marine Navigator was close by, starting it's return voyage to Grey River and Francois.

The MV Galipoli in port in Ramea.

A calm cove in Ramea at low tide. Ramea is roughly 3KM by 1KM and has a population of just under 500. It was originally settled in the early 19th century for its proximity to rich fishing grounds and safe anchorages - such as the cove above.

Stage and wharf at Ramea's main harbour.

The fishing fleet of Ramea,

Every place boasts something unique. In Ramea, it's the boardwalk to the Northwest Head Lighthouse. It takes a good half hour to do the walk one-way, so we are talking a significant boardwalk project! And the really unique thing is that the Town sells boardwalk planks for $25, which you can have personalized in honour of someone or as an in memoriam tribute. In this way, the Town funds the continual upkeep of the boardwalk. Brilliant!

A lighthouse was constructed on the southern end of Ramea (known as Northwest Head) in 1902 to serve the local fishermen. The lighthouse is a cylindrical iron tower, painted spirally with red and white bands.