Day 5 (July 13, 2021): An amazing day in Francois!

Let's face it:  weather can make or break a vacation.  Especially in Newfoundland.  We have enjoyed exceptional weather so far, and waking to another blue sky this morning just added to the pinch-me-if-it's-real feeling we have being here in Francois.

In a place that isn't complicated, a day of sightseeing isn't complicated either.  So the plan for today was simple:  get a sense of this little village and climb the heights to see what lies above this paradise.  

After breakfast in our AirBnB, we set out to walk the community.  From the community incinerator at the northeast edge of the village to the Ferry Ramp at the opposite end of the village, it's roughly half a kilometer.  So it doesn't take long to get around!  The community still has an active fishery -- crab, lobster, halibut and sea cucumbers -- so the harbour is always active.

We then set out to explore the heights.  Although it is possible to hike to the top of The Friar (the square-top rock and highest point in the fjord), it is an arduous trek, which our footwear didn't permit.  Apart from that, there is a “Charlie’s Lookout” on the southwest of the fjord, a dramatic waterfall, and a cave, all of which we took in during a three-hour hike under a hot sun. 

It was exhilarating to wake up and look out at The Friar (top right).

This waterfall through the village flows from one pond to another, high above Francois, and then tumbles down to the sea.

On the northeast side of Francois are massive boulders, which have broken off The Friar in centuries past. These are massive rocks, which would have a devastating impact if they rolled into the developed Francois of today.  One resident told us that a large boulder came tumbling down 10-15 years ago and crushed a boat.


There are 60 or so buildings in the village.  We were told that many of them lie vacant, due to out-migration. We have had four in-depth conversations with locals since we arrived, and everyone has their strong opinions about whether the community will live on or will die out in a few years.

Our AirBnB is the top floor of the white house in the centre of the photo.  The town has a series of wooden and concrete walkways, in lieu of roads.  There are no vehicles, other than all-terrain vehicles.


With a high of 21C and sunny skies, it was a perfect day to hang out laundry. 

Francois has a church, school (five students, including one who graduated in 2021), health clinic, fire hall, generating station, helipad, Government wharf, store and post office.  A few of these facilities are shown below.

Church

Fire hall

Generating station

Examples of antlers are not in short supply!

Crab pots


The Small Craft Harbour wharf of the Department of Fisheries and Oceans.



Sorry, we just can’t resist inserting another view of this amazing port!


The lower of the two ponds above the village.


Pitcher plants are plentiful.


Charlie's Lookout on the west side of the fjord offers sweeping views of the village and to the open sea.


The new Queen of Francois?




The brook that flows from one pond to a second and eventually meanders down through the village to the sea, has several sections that form waterfalls.


There is a very scary wooden staircase and series of ropes that lead to a cave in the sheer rock-face overlooking the village.  It is where the Crust Man apparently lives.  We met two ladies who had been resettled from Francois to Burgeo in the 60s. They told us that, as kids, they were warned to eat their bread-crusts, or else the Crust Man would come down at night to get them.  We went in search of him, but he wasn't to be found.

Home of the Crust Man!

We spent the last couple of hours of the afternoon sitting on the small deck of our AirBnB watching the harbour and taking in the views.  This yellow warbler kept us entertained, especially as it caught and ate a bee.  Warblers must have strong stomachs!


The last moment of excitement happened at 5:50PM, when the coastal boat arrived in port.  Every day except Thursday (when it plies the route east to McCallum and Hermitage) it does a return trip to Grey River and Burgeo.